Each plant has within its genetic code information on how big and wide it is going to get. What can control its growth are environmental factors such as soil quality and exposure to light. When plants get too big for their site, it is usually because it was planted in the wrong place. Pruning can assist somewhat; but, it is usually a better idea to remove the plant and replace it with one that is suitable for its site.
For those plants that are well placed, pruning can enhance the health and aesthetic appeal. Regarding health, it is a good idea to open up the inside of the plant to allow for airflow. This involves thinning cuts i.e., pruning a branch back to its point of origin. Size can be reduced via heading back cuts. This is pruning a branch back to an outward facing bud. This is usually done when a branch is sticking out into a walkway. To achieve desirable aesthetic goals, after removing all dead wood, the desire on my part is to remove no more than 1/3 of the plant while at the same time giving the plant a natural appearance allowing no impression that anyone pruned it. This takes many years of practice and it involves hiding cuts deep inside a plant. I also try to achieve a balance in branch structure regarding weight. Branches are of three different types: coarse, medium, and fine. The inner trunks of a shrub for example are of the coarse type. The outer branches are more the fine type. In between are the medium.
Another factor to consider is how the plant is growing with regards to its particular microclimate. If a shrub is leaning to the right, it is folly to attempt to correct this to an upright shape. The plant will simply grow back to the right. It is best to enhance what is already happening while at the same time removing any blocking limbs.
A specialist in landscape maintenance, Scott Holland of Tigard, Oregon possess considerable insight of pruning, planting and cleanup.
For those plants that are well placed, pruning can enhance the health and aesthetic appeal. Regarding health, it is a good idea to open up the inside of the plant to allow for airflow. This involves thinning cuts i.e., pruning a branch back to its point of origin. Size can be reduced via heading back cuts. This is pruning a branch back to an outward facing bud. This is usually done when a branch is sticking out into a walkway. To achieve desirable aesthetic goals, after removing all dead wood, the desire on my part is to remove no more than 1/3 of the plant while at the same time giving the plant a natural appearance allowing no impression that anyone pruned it. This takes many years of practice and it involves hiding cuts deep inside a plant. I also try to achieve a balance in branch structure regarding weight. Branches are of three different types: coarse, medium, and fine. The inner trunks of a shrub for example are of the coarse type. The outer branches are more the fine type. In between are the medium.
Another factor to consider is how the plant is growing with regards to its particular microclimate. If a shrub is leaning to the right, it is folly to attempt to correct this to an upright shape. The plant will simply grow back to the right. It is best to enhance what is already happening while at the same time removing any blocking limbs.
A specialist in landscape maintenance, Scott Holland of Tigard, Oregon possess considerable insight of pruning, planting and cleanup.
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